Texas Trippin’: Texas Wrangles in Michelin Star Restaurants

Michelin-Starred restaurants in Texas designated ‘worth a stop’ by the culinary bible.

By Ruvani de Silva

LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue | Photo courtesy of Jessica Attie

For foodies and restaurateurs across the Lone Star State, July’s announcement that hallowed arbiters of culinary excellence Michelin would be making their first inspection of our cuisine was greeted with excitement and trepidation. The Michelin Guide is over 100-year-old, and its now-famous star-rating system denotes excellence determined by anonymous inspectors who grade establishments over a series of visits. Their assessments are based on five essential criteria outlined on their website: “The quality of the ingredients, the harmony of flavors, the mastery of techniques, the personality of the chef as expressed through their cuisine and consistency both across the entire menu and over time.”

Michelin’s three-tier star system was originally designed to alert French drivers to must-visit restaurants, hence their phrasing of three-star establishments as ‘worth a special journey’, two-star as ‘worth a detour’ and one-star as ‘worth a stop’. The road-trip analogy might seem light-hearted but any recognition by Michelin is a mark of outstanding quality and success of immense value to chefs, most recently highlighted in FX’s The Bear.

Texas came away from its inaugural inspection with an impressive 15 one-star restaurants. Austin claims seven accolades and two Michelin Green stars, which are presented for outstanding sustainable sourcing. Winning Michelin-Starred restaurants around the state, Texas also secured a much-needed Michelin representation in barbecue. The first four stars Michelin has ever awarded in the American barbecue category goes to Texas.

Austin

One MICHELIN Star

Barley Swine (Contemporary Southern)

Part of Austin’s Odd Duck fine dining empire, Barley Swine was an early nose-to-tail adopter when it opened in 2010. Chef and owner Bryce Gilmore’s emphasis on sustainability, seasonality and local sourcing paired with delicacy and invention in a modern-rustic setting brought Barley Swine praise from the Michelin judges. The Muscovy duck breast was highly recommended.

Barley Swine | Photo courtesy of Richard Casteel

Craft Omakase (Japanese)

Chefs Charlie Wang and Nguyen Nguyen’s 22-course tasting menu might be beyond the reach of many Austinites at $175 per person without drinks but Michelin judges were impressed with their complex and agile menu, served to just 12 guests per sitting. Aguachile of pink shrimp with sweet potato, crudo of hamachi with yuzu-honey sauce and sea scallop dressed with ponzu and lemon zest were among the judges’ recommended dishes at one of just two Texan sushi restaurants to receive a star, a significant achievement for a restaurant less than a year old.

Craft Omasake | Photo courtesy of Taylor Elliot

Hestia (New American)

A 20-foot hearth in the open kitchen is the centerpiece of Hestia’s live-fire experience, where everything from oyster mushrooms to Texas wagyu steak is prepared on the grill. Choose from a la carte or set tasting menus. Beverage advisors are on hand to direct you towards the perfect drinks pairing. Michelin judges highlighted the seared scallop topped with green tomato kosho with a tableside pour of beef tallow sauce atop the mushroom gelée base.

InterStellar BBQ (American Barbecue)

InterStellar has made its mark on Austin since opening its doors back in 2019. Chef and pitmaster John Bates's monicker of ‘low and slow’ paired with his experimental menu eschewing the three meat plate for a more sophisticated fare has already earned him props on Texas Monthly’s prestigious best barbecue list. Michelin judges especially enjoyed the salt-pepper-garlic brisket, peach tea-glazed pork belly and beer-brined tipsy turkey as well as the extensive range of creative sides.

Interstellar BBQ | Photo courtesy of Taylor Gorman

la Barbecue (American Barbecue)

Hot on the heels of visits from Dua Lipa and Prince Harry with Meghan Markle, Michelin has endorsed Austin’s buzziest celeb barbecue hotspot with flying colors. The brainchild of the late LeAnne Mueller and her wife, Ali Clem, la Barbecue is Austin’s first all-female and lesbian-owned barbecue restaurant. Mueller brought her expertise from her family business, Louis Mueller Barbecue to cook pit barbecue to perfection. Michelin judges highlighted the flavorful brisket, house-made sausages and spicy sides.

LeRoy and Lewis Barbecue (American Barbecue)

LeRoy and Lewis’s motto of ‘new school barbecue, old school service’ has led them to push the barbecue boat out with a diverse, creative menu celebrating meat in all its forms while promoting sustainable local sourcing across the board. Recently opening their first brick-and-mortar location has offered the opportunity to expand their eclectic menu further, with Michelin judges recommending their popular beef cheeks, rotating daily sausage and banana pudding tiramisu.

Olamaie (New American)

Another winner with a local-sourcing focus, Olamaie’s high-end farm-to-table cuisine professes to offer a modern interpretation of the South, weaving in African, European and Asian influences with classic Southern dishes. The recipient of multiple local, Olamaie strives for a balance between tradition and diversity. Michelin judges praised the chicken pressé, blackened dayboat fish, gumbo, and red rice with Gulf shrimp.

Olamaie | Photo courtesy of Collin Findlay

MICHELIN Green Star

Dai Due (Austin; American)

Dai Due is known for its inventive wild game dishes and local sourcing, but their thorough program of environmental initiatives including ethical harvesting of meat, food reuse and in-house fermentation snagged them their Green Star.

Dai Due | Photo courtesy of Curtis Clogston

Emmer & Rye (Austin; American)

Emmer and Rye’s whole-animal on-site butchery using meat from their partner farm has helped pave the way for farm-to-table dining in Austin, and Michelin recognized this along with their use of local Texas ingredients, homemade preserves and vinegars and composting program.

Emmer & Rye | Photo courtesy of Mars Tello

Dallas

One MICHELIN Star

Tatsu Dal l as (Japanese)

Dallas’ only star winner offers an intimate experience with just 10 counter seats in the renovated Continental Gin Building. Food is served omakase style with 14-15 pieces in the Edomae tradition with flavors intensifying through the meal. For $170, guests are served personally by chef Tatsuya Sekiguchi, with Michelin judges noting highlights including Alaskan sockeye salmon, Spanish tuna, uni from Hokkaido and end with eel from Maine. Reservations are already hard to book, so imagine what this Michelin star will do for Tatsu Dallas.

Houston

One MICHELIN Star

BCN Taste & Tradition (Spanish)

BCN’s upscale tapas caught the eye of Michelin judges for its elegant, authentic tapas modeled on Barcelona’s dynamic food scene. Located in a picturesque 1920s white stucco bungalow, expect outstanding seafood dishes such as cucumber set on lobster rice and thinly sliced octopus paired with potato purée and smoked paprika as well as authentic meats including Iberian suckling pig.

CorkScrew BBQ (American Barbecue)

CorkScew has long been on the radar of serious barbecue fans who are more than willing to travel out to Spring, just north of Houston, for a taste of their locally sourced red-oak-smoked meats. Owners Will and Nichole Buckman have made Texas Monthly’s best barbecue list multiple times since opening in 2010. Michelin judges praised CorkScrew’s meat across the board, lauding their brisket and beef ribs as some of the finest in the state.

Le Jardinier Houston (French)

Le Jardiner’s culinary director Alain Verzeroli is already a Michelin alumnus for his sister location in Manhattan, so it’s unlikely Houstononians are surprised by the restaurant’s win. Situated in Houston’s chic Museum of Fine Arts, Le Jardanier’s rotating seasonal French-themed menus have cemented their appeal with art-lovers and foodies alike. Judges enjoyed dishes including thin strands of zucchini spaghetti with yellow pepper coulis and Comté foam, Maine diver scallops with carrot jus reduction and sugar snap peas.

March (Creative/Mediterranean)

March’s refined seasonal Mediterranean-fusion fine dining menu curated by chef Felipe Riccio and sommelier June Rodil segues around southern European cuisines with a panache that appealed to Michelin’s judges. These judges recommend indulging in a six or nine-course tasting menu for a fully immersive experience. Expect to find sophisticated dishes like halibut, purple carrot, blueberry and beurre rouge and king crab, mussels, red pepper and fennel – all beautifully presented.

Musaafer (Indian)

Part of Dubai-based restaurant group Spice Route Co, the concept behind Musaafer is a 100-day trip taken around India by the restaurant’s culinary team to bring together regional cuisines from across the country. Already listed in TIME magazine’s World’s Greatest Places for 2021, Musaafer offers carefully detailed elevated takes on traditional dishes, as well as fusion dishes and a complex complementary cocktail menu – all served in an opulent neo-colonial space. Michelin judges recommend the 24-spice onion xuixo served with tamarind and mint chutney, prawns in coriander, coconut milk, and curry leaves and 72-hour-cooked dal.

Tatemó (Mexican)

Tatemó’s chef Emmanuel Chavez already has a host of prestigious accolades under his belt including two James Beard nominations, Food & Wine’s best new chef 2023 and Esquire’s best restaurants of 2022. Focusing on heirloom nixtamalized corn, Chavez offers a menu curated to celebrate its cultural value. Judges praised his ceviche, quesadillas, and gorditas as well as his salsas, sauces and mole.

San Antonio

One MICHELIN Star

Mixtli (Mexican cuisine)

Mixtli means ‘cloud’ in the ancient Aztec language of Nahuatl. Chefs Diego Galicia and Rico Torres’ rotating menu celebrates historic and regional Mexican cuisine, exploring the country and its history one area at a time. The judges were particularly impressed by Mixtli’s regional diversity and their interpretations of Oaxacan specialties and the cuisine of ‘Tierra Caliente.

MICHELIN Bib Gourmand